Woven Label Fold Types: Center Fold, End Fold, Mitre Fold & Straight Cut Explained
When ordering custom woven labels, designing a beautiful logo is only half the battle. How the label is **cut, folded, and sewn** onto your garment is just as important. The right fold type determines how the label lies against the body, how easy it is to sew, and the overall professional look of your apparel.
Why Fold Types Matter
Unlike paper tags, woven labels are made of interlaced yarns that will **fray at the edges** if they are straight cut without heat sealing or folding. Folding the raw woven edges under ensures a clean, finished appearance that is comfortable against the wearer's skin.
Furthermore, different fold types suit different parts of the garment. For example, a fold that works beautifully on a t-shirt hem will feel scratchy inside a baby onesie's neckline. Let's explore the five primary fold types used in modern garment branding.
1. Center Fold Labels
A **Center Fold** label is folded in half in the exact middle, creating a loop. The raw edges at the top of the loop are sewn together into a seam (usually a collar neck seam, side seam, or waistline seam). The folded edge hangs down freely inside or outside the garment.
- Ideal Use: Inner neck brand labels, size labels, side seam flag labels, and hem tags.
- Pros: Allows you to print or weave different information on the front and back (e.g., logo on the front, care instructions and origin on the back).
- Sewing Tip: Always specify a 5mm to 7mm sewing allowance at the raw top edge so the seamstress has enough room to sew the label into the seam without covering the logo.
2. End Fold Labels (Left/Right or Top/Bottom)
An **End Fold** label has its left and right ends (or top and bottom ends) folded under toward the back. The label is sewn flat onto the garment, either by stitching down the two folded ends or stitching all four sides.
- Ideal Use: High-end shirt neck labels, jacket lining labels, waistband labels.
- Pros: Lies completely flat against the garment. Folded ends mean there are no sharp cut corners to scratch the customer's skin.
- Perceived Quality: Extremely premium. Often preferred by formalwear and luxury brands.
3. Mitre Fold Labels (Hook Loop / Book Fold)
A **Mitre Fold** label has its left and right ends folded upward at a 45-degree angle, creating a tab shape where the ends point upward. These ends are then sewn into a single seam (typically a neck seam). This creates a loop that allows the garment to be hung on a hook by the label itself.
- Ideal Use: Outerwear, heavy shirts, bathrobes, coats, and hoodies.
- Pros: Doubles as a functional coat hanger loop, giving a classic, heritage look to outerwear.
- Limitations: Requires a wider label layout to accommodate the 45-degree folds on the sides.
4. Manhattan Fold Labels
The **Manhattan Fold** is a hybrid fold type. It is folded in half like a center fold label, but the top raw edge is also folded over and tucked in. When sewn, the top folded edge creates a clean finish on both sides of the seam.
- Ideal Use: Hem tags that wrap around the bottom edge of a sleeve or t-shirt body.
- Pros: Provides a completely finished, professional look from both the inside and outside of the hem. No raw edges are visible.
- Application: Very common in modern streetwear and athletic apparel.
5. Straight Cut Labels (Flat/No Fold)
A **Straight Cut** label has no folds. The edges are cut using an ultrasonic or laser cutter, which instantly melts the polyester threads to seal the edges and prevent fraying. These labels are sewn flat on all four sides.
- Ideal Use: Woven patches, outer branding labels, iron-on labels, sew-on pockets.
- Pros: Cleanest visual shape, no folding bulk. Ideal for exterior branding patches.
- Safety Tip: Because the edges are heat-sealed, they can sometimes have a slightly rough feel. Avoid using straight cut labels inside tight-fitting garments next to sensitive skin.
Fold Types Head-to-Head
| Fold Type | Typical Position | Stitching Area | Fray Risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Center Fold | Collar seam, side seam | Seam line (Top edge) | Zero (raw edge hidden in seam) |
| End Fold | Inner neck (flat) | Left & right ends | Zero (edges folded under) |
| Mitre Fold | Neckline loop | Top tabs in seam | Zero (raw edges in seam) |
| Manhattan Fold | Sleeve/T-shirt hem | Wrapped around hem edge | Zero (fully enclosed folds) |
| Straight Cut | Outer patch, pockets | All 4 borders | Low (requires heat-sealing) |
How to Specify Folds in Your Order
When ordering from Logo Weave, specifying your fold type is easy. Here are the three guidelines to follow during artwork setup:
- State dimensions including folds: Let us know if the dimensions you request represent the *folded* size or the *unfolded* size. For center fold, if you want a 4×2 cm visible label, the unfolded label needs to be 8×2 cm.
- Define sewing margins: Standard sewing machines need a 5mm buffer. We leave this area clear of logos and text so your design is never sewn through.
- Ask for templates: If you are using our free preview tool or need help figuring out the layout, our design team can share folder layouts on WhatsApp to help you map your graphics correctly.
Choosing the right fold completes your garment's branding experience. Read our guides on choosing label materials or learn more about minimum order sizes to plan your order. Upload your logo to our preview tool or speak directly with our team on WhatsApp at +91 98915 08738 to finalize your fold specification.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the fold type affect the cost of the label?
Standard folds like straight cut, center fold, and end fold have identical pricing at Logo Weave. Mitre folds and complex Manhattan folds may have a minor surcharge because they require specialized precision folding setups.
Can I sewing-machine sew all label fold types at home?
Yes. All our fold styles are sewing-machine and needle friendly. However, center fold and end fold are typically much easier for manual stitching compared to mitre folds, which require accurate seam placement.
Do you deliver labels already folded?
Absolutely. All folded label orders are machine-folded and hot-iron pressed at our facility. You receive them fully finished, counted, bundled, and ready to be sewn directly onto your garments.